The
Thames is a
river flowing through southern
England, and one of the major waterways in England. While perhaps best known because its lower reaches flow through central
London, the river flows through several other significant towns and cities, including
Oxford,
Reading and
Windsor.
The river gives its name to the
Thames Valley, a region of England centred around the river between Oxford and
West London, and the
Thames Gateway, the area centred around the tidal Thames and the
Thames Estuary to the east of London.
History Until around half a million years ago, the Thames flowed on its existing course through what is now
Oxfordshire, before turning to the north east through
Hertfordshire and
East Anglia and reaching
North Sea near
Ipswich. At the end of the
ice age, the ice started to melt and huge amounts of water entered this river system, causing it to cut down a new route through the
chalk at the site of the
Goring Gap, near the Oxfordshire village of
Goring-On-Thames between
Oxford and
Reading. This created a new river route flowing down through
Berkshire and on into
London.
At the height of the last
ice age around 12000 years ago, Britain was connected to mainland Europe via a large expanse of land known as
Doggerland. At this time, the Thames was much larger than it is today, with its source rising much further west in present-day Wales. The river's course continued out into Doggerland, where it met the
Rhine. Thus the two rivers were at one time part of the same river system.
Geological history The Thames provided the major highway between London and Westminster in the 16th and 17th centuries. The clannish guild of watermen ferried Londoners from landing to landing and tolerated no outside interference.
The River Thames has frozen over in cold weather throughout history. One of the earliest accounts of the Thames freezing over comes from A.D. 250 when it was frozen hard for nine weeks. Hubert Lamb and other historians have found that the Thames froze in the years AD 923, AD 998, and for seven weeks in 1061. It has also completely frozen over during these severe winters of (paradoxically) the
Medieval Warm Period: 1149 - 1150, 1204 - 1205, 1269 - 1270, 1281 - 1282, 1309 - 1310, 1407 - 1408, 1409 - 1410, 1434 - 1435, early 1506, 1513 - 1514, 1516 - 1517, and 1536 - 1537. (12 times in total)
Between 1400 and the nineteenth century there were a total of 23 documented winters in which the Thames froze over at London during a period that became known as the
Little Ice Age. This led to the first
Frost Fair in 1607, complete with a tent city set up on the river itself and offering a number of amusements, including ice bowling. After temperatures began to rise again, starting in 1814, the river has never frozen over completely. The building of a new
London Bridge in 1825 may also have been a factor; the new bridge had fewer pillars than the old, so allowing the river to flow more freely, thus preventing it from flowing slowly enough to freeze in cold winters.
Human history The river's name appears always to have been pronounced with a simple "t" at the beginning; the
Middle English spelling was typically
Temese and
Celtic Tamesis. The "th" lends an air of
Greek to the name and was added during the
Renaissance, possibly to reflect or support a belief that the name was derived from
River Thyamis in the
Epirus region of
Greece, whence early
Celtic tribes are thought to have migrated. However, most scholars now believe
Temese and
Tamesis come from
Celtic (
Brythonic)
Tamesa, possibly meaning 'the dark one'. The modern Welsh name for the river which may stem from this earlier tradition is
Tafwys.
Indirect evidence for the antiquity of the name 'Thames' is provided by a Roman potsherd found at Oxford, bearing the inscription
Tamesubugus fecit (Tamesubugus made this). It is believed that Tamesubugus's name was derived from that of the river.
Origin of the name Geography The Thames has a length of 346
km (215
miles). Its usually quoted
source is at
Thames Head (at
grid reference ST980994), about a mile north of the village of
Kemble and near the town of
Cirencester, in the
Cotswolds. However, Seven Springs near
Cheltenham, where the river
Churn rises, is also sometimes quoted as the Thames' source, as this location is furthest from the mouth both in distance along its course and
as the crow flies. The
springs at Seven Springs also flow throughout the year, while those at Thames Head are only seasonal.
The Thames flows through
Ashton Keynes,
Cricklade,
Lechlade,
Oxford,
Abingdon,
Wallingford,
Goring-On-Thames,
Reading,
Henley-on-Thames,
Marlow,
Maidenhead,
Windsor,
Eton,
Staines and
Weybridge, before entering the
Greater London area.
From the outskirts of Greater London, the river passes
Hampton Court,
Kingston,
Teddington,
Twickenham,
Richmond (with the famous view of the Thames from Richmond Hill),
Syon House and
Kew before flowing through central
London. In central London, the river forms one of the principal axes of the city, from the
Palace of Westminster to the
Tower of London and was the southern boundary of the mediaeval city.
Once clear of central London, the river passes between
Greenwich and the
Isle of Dogs, before flowing through the
Thames Barrier, which protects central London from flooding in the event of
storm surges. Below the barrier, the river passes
Dartford,
Tilbury and
Gravesend before entering the
Thames Estuary near
Southend-on-Sea.
Course of the river The whole of the river drains a catchment area of some 4,994 square miles (12,935 km²) or 5,924 square miles (15,343 km²) if the
River Medway is included as a tributary.
Catchment area and discharge Innumerable brooks, canals and rivers, within an area of 3,841
square miles (9,948
square km), combine to form 38 main tributaries feeding the Thames between its source and
Teddington. These include the rivers
Churn,
Leach,
Cole,
Coln,
Windrush,
Evenlode,
Cherwell,
Ock,
Thame,
Pang,
Kennet,
Loddon,
Colne,
Wey and
Mole.
Between Maidenhead and Windsor, the Thames supports an artificial secondary channel, known as the
Jubilee River, for flood relief purposes.
More than half the rain that falls on this catchment is lost to evaporation and plant growth. The remainder provides the water resource that has to be shared between river flows, to support the natural environment and the community needs for water supplies to homes, industry and agriculture. During heavy rainfall events the Thames occasionally receives raw sewage discharge due to
sanitary sewer overflow.
The non-tidal section About 55 miles from the sea, at
Teddington, the river begins to exhibit
tidal activity from the
North Sea. This tidal stretch of the river is known as "the
Tideway". London was reputedly made capital of
Roman Britain at the spot where the tides reached in
AD 43 but this spot has moved up river, in the 2000 years since then, because of the
glacial rebound effect. At London, the water is slightly
brackish with sea salt. Below Teddington, the principal
tributaries include the rivers
Brent,
Wandle,
Effra,
Westbourne,
Fleet,
Ravensbourne (the final part of which is called
Deptford Creek),
Lea, Roding,
Darent and
Ingrebourne.
The average discharge of the Thames grows up to approximately 66 m³/s at the end of its non-tidal section, at
Kingston upon Thames, a figure which is exceeded by some other British rivers (e.g., the
Severn and the
Tay). Indeed, if the Thames were not a tidal river, its average discharge in the centre of London would be somewhere between 80 and 100 m³/s, and the Thames would look like a small river, not the large river we can see today by Westminster, the Houses of Parliament or the City.
Some low-lying areas beside the tidal section of the Thames are liable to regular flooding at spring tides. However, in recent years, the flooding has been occurring more frequently at unusual times. One such example exists at
Chiswick Lane South in London's W4
postal district, where the river now bursts its banks almost daily between March and September.
The tidal section The Thames is navigable from the estuary as far as
Lechlade in
Gloucestershire. Between the sea and
Teddington Lock, the river forms part of the
Port of London and navigation is administered by the
Port of London Authority. From Teddington Lock to the head of navigation, the navigation authority is the
Environment Agency.
The river is navigable to large ocean-going ships as far as the
Pool of London and
London Bridge. Today little commercial traffic passes above the docks at
Tilbury and central London sees only the occasional visiting
cruise ship or
warship, moored alongside
HMS Belfast and a few smaller
aggregate or
refuse vessels, operating from
wharves in the west of London. Both the tidal river through London and the non-tidal river upstream are intensively used for leisure navigation.
There are 45
locks on the River Thames. See
Locks on the River Thames for a full list of all locks.
Navigation Main article: Crossings of the River Thames Crossings Main article: Islands in the River Thames Islands The river itself rises in
Gloucestershire, traditionally forming the
county boundary, firstly between
Gloucestershire and
Wiltshire, between
Berkshire on the south bank and
Oxfordshire on the north, between Berkshire and
Buckinghamshire, between Berkshire and
Surrey, between Surrey and
Middlesex and between
Essex and
Kent.
Before the 1974 boundary changes, the current boundary between Berkshire and Surrey was between Buckinghamshire and Surrey. The boundary between Oxfordshire and Berkshire was also moved at that time.
The river as a boundary Culture The Thames is a motif in many books.
Three Men in a Boat by
Jerome K. Jerome describes a boat trip up the Thames; published in 1889, it has never been out of print, proof of the continuing influence of the Thames on the literary imagination. Other authors took inspiration from this best-selling comic novel (with its side-nods to social commentary). Examples include poet Kim Taplin's 1993 travelogue
Three Women in a Boat and
Connie Willis's
To Say Nothing of the Dog. Somewhere near the Oxford stretch is where the Liddells were rowing in the poem at the start of
Alice's Adventures in Wonderland. The river is almost a character in its own right in
Kenneth Grahame's
The Wind in the Willows and its derivatives. The utopian
News from Nowhere by
William Morris is mainly the account of a journey through the
Thames valley in a socialist future. Another is featured in
The Amulet of Samarkand from
The Bartimaeus Trilogy by
Jonathan Stroud, when Nathaniel plans to toss a can of tobacco into the Thames in order to imprison Bartimaeus. The Thames also features prominently in
Philip Pullman's
His Dark Materials trilogy, as a communications artery for the waterborne Gyptian people of Oxford and the Fens.
In books set in
London there is
Sherlock Holmes looking for a boat in
The Sign of Four. Many of
Charles Dickens's novels feature the Thames.
Oliver Twist finishes in the slums and
rookeries along its south bank.
Our Mutual Friend begins with a scavenger and his daughter pulling a dead man from the river, to legally salvage what the body might have in its pockets. Dickens opens the novel with this sketch of the river, and the people who work on it:
In these times of ours, though concerning the exact year there is no need to be precise, a boat of dirty and disreputable appearance, with two figures in it, floated on the Thames, between Southwark Bridge which is of iron, and London Bridge which is of stone, as an autumn evening was closing in. In
Heart of Darkness by
Joseph Conrad, the old sailor Marlow begins his yarn while sitting on a boat in the Thames. The serenity of the contemporary Thames is contrasted with the savagery of the
Congo River, and with the wilderness of the Thames as it would have appeared to a Roman soldier posted to Britannia two thousand years before. Conrad also gives a memorable description of the approach to London from the
Thames Estuary in his essays
The Mirror of the Sea (1906).
In poetry,
T.S. Eliot references the Thames at the beginning of The Fire Sermon, Section III of "
The Waste Land". It could be said that the references make for a spiritual reverence of the river, as the river is referred to as "sweet". However he also refers to the area as "brown" and throughout this poem the
semantic field evokes feelings of decay with its references to detritus.
William Blake makes reference to the Thames in his famous poem
London:
I wander thro' each charter'd street,/ Near where the charter'd Thames does flow
In this instance, it could be said that the Thames is a boundless and free notion; but Blake seems to be showing here a disdain for its apparent 'chartered' nature. Joseph Brodsky wrote a poem entitled "The Thames at Chelsea".
Literature John Kaufman's sculpture
The Diver:Regeneration can be found sited in the Thames near
Rainham.
A boat chase on the Thames forms the long opening scene of the
James Bond film
The World Is Not Enough. The offices of
MI6, Britain's external spy agency, are right on the river in a building known as
Vauxhall Cross.
Other arts The river is popular with tourists. There are many sightseeing tours in tourist boats, especially in the lower reaches past the more famous riverside attractions such as the
Houses of Parliament and the
Tower of London.
Sport The Thames is the historic heartland of
rowing in the
United Kingdom. There are over 200 clubs on the river, and over 8,000 members of the
Amateur Rowing Association (over 40% of its membership). Most towns and districts of any size on the river have at least one club, but key centres are
Oxford,
Henley-on-Thames and the stretch of river from
Chiswick to
Putney.
Two rowing events on the River Thames are traditionally part of the wider English sporting calendar:
The
University Boat Race is rowed between
Oxford University Boat Club and the
Cambridge University Boat Club in late March or early April, on the
Championship Course from
Putney to
Mortlake in the west of
London.
Henley Royal Regatta takes place over five days at the start of July in the upstream town of
Henley-on-Thames. Besides its sporting significance the regatta is an important date on the English
social calendar alongside events like
Royal Ascot and
Wimbledon.
Other significant or historic rowing events on the Thames include:
Innumerable other
regattas,
head races and bumping races are held along the Thames.
The
Head of the River Race and other head races over the
Championship Course The
Wingfield Sculls for the amateur sculling championship of the Thames and Great Britain
Doggett's Coat and Badge for apprentice watermen, one of the oldest sporting events in the world
Henley Women's Regatta The
Henley Boat Races for the Women's and Lightweight crews of Oxford and Cambridge Universities
The
Oxford University bumping races known as
Eights Week and
Torpids Rowing Sailing is practiced on both the tidal and non-tidal reaches of the river. Clubs in and near the London section of the Thames include:
Clubs Upstream of London Include:
Clubs in the Lower Thames Include:
See also:
London Corinthian Sailing Club near
Hammersmith Bridge South Bank Sailing Club in
Putney Ranelagh Sailing Club in
Putney Docklands Sailing And Watersports Centre at
Millwall Dock Capital Sailing School at
Millwall Dock The Surrey Docks Watersports Centre at
Surrey Quays.
Thurrock Yacht Club in
Thurrock Greenwich Yacht Club in
Greenwich Royal Thames Yacht Club in
Knightsbridge Thames Sailing Club in
Surbiton Hampton Sailing Club in
Hampton, London Little Ship Club near
Southwark Bridge Goring Thames Sailing Club in
Goring-on-Thames,
Oxfordshire Upper Thames Sailing Club in
Bourne End, Buckinghamshire Cookham Reach Sailing Club in
Cookham,
Berkshire Medley Sailing Club in
Oxford,
Oxfordshire Dorchester Sailing Club near
Dorchester-on-Thames, in
Abingdon, Oxfordshire Gravesend Sailing Club in
Gravesend,
Kent Erith Yacht Club near
Erith,
Kent The Thames Sailing Barge Trust Sailing on the River Thames by the
The River Thames Alliance, a partnership between public and private sector organisations set up to help manage the future of the non-tidal Thames.
Sailing Skiffing remains popular, particularly in the summer months. Several clubs and regattas may be found in the outer suburbs of west London.
Skiffing Unlike the "pleasure
punting" common on the
Cherwell in
Oxford and the
Cam in
Cambridge, punting on the Thames is competitive and uses narrower craft.
Punting Kayaking and
canoeing are popular, with
sea kayakers using the tidal stretch for touring. Sheltered water kayakers and canoeists use the non-tidal section for training, racing and trips.
Whitewater playboaters and
slalom paddlers are catered for at
weirs like
Hurley Weir,
Sunbury Weir and
Boulter's Weir.
Kayaking and Canoeing This is a trivia section. The section could be improved by integrating relevant items into the main text and removing inappropriate items. The
Sex Pistols played a concert on the Queen Elizabeth Riverboat on June 7, 1977, the Queen's Silver Jubilee, while sailing down the river.
On January 20, 2006, a northern 16-18 ft (5 m)
bottle-nosed whale was spotted in the Thames and was seen as far upstream as Chelsea. This is extremely unusual because this type of whale is generally found in deep sea waters. Crowds gathered along the riverbanks to witness the extraordinary spectacle. But it soon became clear there was cause for concern, as the animal came within yards of the banks, almost beaching, and crashed into an empty boat causing slight bleeding. Approx. 12 hours later, the whale was believed to be seen again near
Greenwich, possibly heading back to sea. There was a rescue attempt lasting several hours, but it eventually died on a barge.
See River Thames whale.
Unusual objects floated along the Thames by barge include a Eurostar Railway locomotive, a Concorde aircraft and a Submarine.
It is not unusual to see the French navy in the Thames; very often French naval vessels make official visits to the Royal Navy dock,
HMS President, just by the Tower Bridge.
While writing in his diary in June 1667
Samuel Pepys was disturbed by the sound of gunfire, as Dutch warships on the Thames broke through the Royal Navy to
invade London.
Polar explorer and endurance swimmer Lewis Pugh became the first person ever to swim the length of the Thames. His journey started on 17th July 2006 close to the source of the river in Gloucestershire and ended 147 miles later in London. Pugh undertook the challenge to raise awareness of climate change.
The traditional
Swan Upping ceremony takes place annually on the River Thames during the third week of July.
Bear Grylls, host of the
Discovery Channel's "Man vs Wild" series lives on a converted barge on the River Thames with his wife Shara and their young sons Jesse and Marmaduke.
In the
Doctor Who episode
"The Runaway Bride", the Thames was completely drained, leaving numbers of barges stranded.
Religion Marchioness disaster The Diver Torso in the Thames River and Rowing Museum Rivers of the United Kingdom UK topics Thames Town Thames Television Locks on the River Thames Weirs on the River Thames London Stones beside the river
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